Dataset Information

Muscle oxygen dynamics in elite climbers during finger-hang tests at varying intensities.

ABSTRACT: The aim of this study was to measure muscle oxygen saturation (SmO2) dynamics during a climbing specific task until failure in varying conditions. Our prediction was that SmO2 should be a good marker to predict task failure. Eleven elite level climbers performed a finger-hang test on a 23?mm wooden rung under four different weighted conditions, 1. body weight (BW), 2. body weight?+20% (BW?+20), 3. body weight -20% (BW -20) and 4. body weight -40% (BW -40), maintaining half crimp grip until voluntary exhaustion. During each trial SmO2 and time to task failure (TTF) were measured. TTF was then compared to the minimally attainable value of SmO2 (SmO2min) and time to SmO2min (TTmin). There is a considerable degree of agreement between attainable SmO2min at high intensity conditions (MBW?=?21.6%?±?6.4; MBW+20?=?24.0%?±?7.0; MBW-20?=?23.0%?±?7.3). Bland-Altman plot with an a priori set equivalency interval of ±5% indicate that these conditions are statistically not different (MBW-BW + 20?=?-2.4%, 95% CI [1.4, -6.2]; MBW-Bw-20?=?-1.3, 95% CI [2.5, -5.1]). The fourth and lowest intensity condition (MBW -40?=?32.4%?±?8.8) was statistically different and not equivalent (MBW-BW -40?=?-8.8%, 95% CI [-5.0, -12.6]). The same agreement was found between TTF and TTmin for the high intensity conditions plotted via Bland-Altman. While the rate with which oxygen was extracted and utilised changed with the conditions, the attainable SmO2min remained constant at high intensity conditions and was related to TTF.

SUBMITTER: Feldmann AM

PROVIDER: S-EPMC7033122 | biostudies-literature | 2020 Feb

REPOSITORIES: biostudies-literature

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Muscle oxygen dynamics in elite climbers during finger-hang tests at varying intensities.

Feldmann Andri M AM Erlacher Daniel D Pfister Sandro S Lehmann Remo R

Scientific reports 20200220 1

The aim of this study was to measure muscle oxygen saturation (SmO<sub>2</sub>) dynamics during a climbing specific task until failure in varying conditions. Our prediction was that SmO<sub>2</sub> should be a good marker to predict task failure. Eleven elite level climbers performed a finger-hang test on a 23 mm wooden rung under four different weighted conditions, 1. body weight (BW), 2. body weight +20% (BW +20), 3. body weight -20% (BW -20) and 4. body weight -40% (BW -40), maintaining half ...[more]

PMID: 32080325

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Project description:Elite competitive sport climbers exhibit a high strength-to-weight ratio and are reported in the literature to be lighter and leaner than their athletic counterparts. Current research regarding nutrition among climbers is sparse but suggests that they may be at high risk for low energy availability and Relative Energy Deficiency in Sport (RED-S). The prevalence of amenorrhea, one of the primary indicators of RED-S, is unknown in this athletic population. The purpose of this study was to determine the prevalence of current (previous 12 months) amenorrhea among elite level competitive sport climbers.MethodsAn anonymous online survey was distributed via email to 1,500 female climbers registered as competitors within the International Federation of Sport Climbing to assess the prevalence of amenorrhea over the past 12 months.ResultsA total of 114 female sport climbers answered all survey questions regarding menstrual function and 18 athletes (15.8%) presented with current amenorrhea. The majority of the athletes (72%; n = 82) were categorized with eumenorrhea. An additional 14 athletes (12.3%) provided information that indicated irregular cycles, but answers to all menstrual cycle questions were not congruent to elicit a classification of amenorrhea and these athletes were categorized with a menstrual status of unsure. The average BMI for climbers with eumenorrhea was 20.8 ± 1.8 kg/m2 and 19.9 ± 2.4 kg/m2 for those with amenorrhea. A higher percentage of climbers with amenorrhea revealed they currently struggle with an eating disorder compared to those without amenorrhea (13.5 vs. 22.2%, respectively).ConclusionThis study indicates that some female climbers competing at the World Cup level do have menstrual disturbances with relatively normal BMIs and some currently struggle with one or more eating disorders. Even though World Cup competitions use BMI critical margins to screen competitors, this research highlights the need for more medical supervision of competitive elite female sport climbers in order to protect their overall health, including menstrual function. Further research is required to clarify how many climbers suffer from endocrine abnormalities related to RED-S. With more scientific evidence in this area practitioners will be better equipped to educate the athlete and coach with evidence-based nutrition recommendations.

Project description:Climbing has developed into a popular recreational and elite sport, evidenced by a growing number of licenced competition athletes, and the acceptance into the Olympic calendar for Tokyo 2020. A nutritional assessment, including the evaluation of anthropometric and biochemical data, has not been previously reported in climbing athletes. Therefore, the aim of this study was to assess the dietary intake, body composition, and iron status in experienced climbers, across a range of performance levels. Forty climbers (n = 20 male, n = 20 female; 8.8 ± 6.6 years' experience; BMI 21.6 ± 1.7) aged 18-46 (30.3 ± 6.7 years) participated in the study. Dietary intake was recorded in a 3-days diet diary. Body composition was assessed using a skinfold profile and iron status via blood markers. Mean energy intake was 2154.6 ± 450 kcal·day-1, with 30% of male climbers and 5% of female climbers failing to meet predicted resting metabolic rate. Furthermore, 77.5% of participants failed to meet a predicted energy requirement to support a "moderate" training programme. There were no significant correlations between daily energy intake and exercise volume. Mean intake of carbohydrate, protein and fat was 3.7 ± 0.9 g·kg-1·day-1, 1.6 ± 0.5 g·kg-1·day-1, and 1.4 ± 0.4 g·kg-1·day-1, respectively, with no significant difference between genders. Approximately 17% of males (n =3) and 45% of females (n = 9) had a sub-optimal iron status. Thirty percent of females met the classification criteria for iron deficiency. Mean serum ferritin was significantly greater in males, compared to females (102.7 ± 54.9 vs. 51.4 ± 24.2 ?g·L-1; p ? 0.01) and significantly lower in vegan/vegetarians vs. omnivores, in female climbers only (33.2 ± 14.8 vs. 57.5 ± 24 ?g·L-1; p = 0.05). No significant differences were observed between climbing ability groups (intermediate-advanced/elite-higher elite) for body composition, dietary intake, or iron status, for males or females. These findings suggest that experienced climbers are at risk of energy restriction and iron deficiency, therefore, routine assessment of nutritional status is warranted. Future research should consider iron status in relation to energy availability and investigate additional factors which may predispose this population to iron deficiency, as well as the risk of relative energy deficiency in sport (RED-S).

Project description:BackgroundMaximal isometric finger dead-hangs are used in rock climbing to strengthen finger flexors. Although various grip positions are often used when performing finger dead-hangs, little is known regarding how these grip positions can affect forearm muscle activity. Understanding how forearm muscles are recruited during dead-hangs could help foreseeing the potential for training of different grip positions. The aim of the present study was to explore the training applications of the various grip positions by comparing the activity of forearm muscles during maximal dead-hangs in rock climbers.Materials & methodsTwenty-five climbers performed maximal dead-hangs in three climbing-specific grip positions: CRIMP, SLOPE, and SLOPER. We recorded the maximal loads used and the sEMG of the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP), the flexor digitorum superficialis (FDS), the flexor carpi radialis (FCR), and the extensor digitorum communis (EDC). Individual and global (sum of all muscles) root mean square (RMS) and neuromuscular efficiency (NME) values were computed. Repeated measures analysis were performed to assess grip differences (p < 0.05).ResultsSLOPER showed the largest maximal load values among the three grip positions (p < 0.001, d ≥ 2.772). Greater global (p ≤ 0.044, d ≥ 0.268), FDS (p ≤ 0.005, d ≥ 0.277), and FCR (p < 0.001, d ≥ 1.049) activity was observed for the SLOPER compared to CRIMP and SLOPE, while EDC (p ≤ 0.005, d ≥ 0.505) showed lower activity in the SLOPER compared to the other two grip positions. SLOPER presented the highest global (p < 0.001, d ≥ 0.629), FDP (p < 0.001, d ≥ 0.777), FDS (only CRIMP vs SLOPER: p < 0.001, d = 0.140), and EDC NME (p < 0.001, d ≥ 1.194). The CRIMP showed greater FDS activity (p = 0.001, d = 0.386) and lower NME (p = 0.003, d = 0.125) compared to SLOPE.ConclusionsThese results revealed that, under maximum intensity conditions, SLOPER could stimulate the FDS and FCR better than the other grip positions at the expense of using greater loads. Similarly, maximum CRIMP dead-hang could better stimulate the FDS than the SLOPE, even when using similar loads.

Project description:Objectives Competitive sport climbing has made its way to the Olympic stage. This prestige has brought about route setting and training alterations which presumably affect injury epidemiology. Most of the climbing injury literature contains male climbers and lacks high performing athletes. Studies with both female and male climbers, rarely included separate analyses for performance level or sex. Therefore, injury concerns for elite female competitive climbers are impossible to discern. A former study examined the prevalence of amenorrhea in elite international female climbers (n = 114) and reported that 53.5% had at least one injury in the past 12 months, but injury details were excluded. This study's aim was to report these injury details and their associations with BMI, menstrual status and eating disorders of the cohort. Methods Online survey was emailed to competitive female climbers recruited through the IFSC database between June and August 2021. Data was analyzed using Mann–Whitney U, χ2 and logistic regression. Results 229 registered IFSC climbers opened the questionnaire and 114 (49.7%) provided valid responses. Respondents (mean ± SD; age = 22.9 ± 5 year) represented 30 different countries and more than half (53.5%, n = 61) reported an injury in the prior 12 months with the majority in shoulders (37.7%, n = 23) and fingers (34.4%, n = 21). Injury prevalence in climbers with amenorrhea was 55.6% (n = 10). BMI was not a significant predictor of injury risk (OR = 1.082, 95% CI: 0.89, 1.3; p = 0.440) while accounting for current ED over the past 12 months. However, the odds ratio for having an injury was doubled for those with an ED (OR = 2.129, 95% CI: 0.905, 5.010; p = 0.08). Conclusion With over half reporting recent injuries (<12 months) mostly to shoulders and fingers, development of new strategies for injury prevention in competitive female climbers are warranted. In addition, climbers with disordered eating behaviors and/or menstrual disturbances might be more prone to injury. More research in this population is required. Suitable screening to prevent these health issues and proper monitoring of these athletes are paramount to long-term athlete success.

Project description:Functional constituents in the leaves of Passiflora plants contain antidepressant and antianxiety effects which are beneficial to human health and fitness. The objective of this study was to investigate leaf growth, physiological parameters, and secondary metabolite contents of Tainung No. 1 variety (P. edulis × P. edulis f. flavicarpa.) and P. suberosa in response to three light intensity conditions, including 100% light intensity (LI-100), 50% light intensity (LI-50), and 15% light intensity (LI-15) for 2 months. The leaf number, length, width, area, dry weight (DW), minimal fluorescence (Fo), maximal fluorescence (Fm), maximum photochemical efficiency of photosystem II, and soil-plant analysis development (SPAD) values of all tested plants increased with a decreasing light intensity, except for the leaf number and DW of P. suberosa plants. Low values of the net photosynthetic rate, transpiration rate, and stomatal conductance of Tainung No. 1 leaves in the LI-15 treatment showed the acclimation capacity of these plants. These observations together with high values of leaf growth traits of Fo, Fm, SPAD, and the intercellular-to-atmospheric CO2 concentration ratio indicate their physiological plasticity, which is of fundamental importance when cultivating plants in environments with different light availabilities. Wide variations occurred in total phenol (TP), total flavonoid (TF), orientin (OR), and isovitexin (IV) contents of the two Passiflora varieties, and P. suberosa contained higher TP and TF contents than did Tainung No. 1 in each light treatment but IV content of P. suberosa was lower than that of Tainung No. 1 in the LI-15 treatment. Moreover, increases in TF, OR, and IV contents of Tainung No. 1 and P. suberosa were clear in the LI-50 and LI-100 treatments, respectively, compared to LI-15 treatment. Leaf growth, physiological parameters, and secondary metabolite accumulations in Passiflora species can be optimized for commercial production via lighting control technologies, and this approach may also be applicable to leafy vegetables to produce a stable industrial supply of high leaf yields and metabolite contents.

Dataset Information

Muscle oxygen dynamics in elite climbers during finger-hang tests at varying intensities.

Publications

Muscle oxygen dynamics in elite climbers during finger-hang tests at varying intensities.

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