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Achillea millefolium L. and Achillea biebersteinii Afan. Hydroglycolic Extracts-Bioactive Ingredients for Cosmetic Use.

ABSTRACT: Studies on hydroglycolic (HG) extracts of Achillea biebersteinii (AB)-a less investigated representative of the genus-were performed to determine their potential for cosmetic applications compared to the well-known Achillea millefolium (AM). Three types of water:polyethylene glycol extracts (1:1, 4:1, 6:1 v/v) were obtained from both species and analyzed for their composition by high performance liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (HPLC-ESI-Q-TOF-MS) and assayed for their biological activities. The study led to the identification of 11 metabolites from different natural product classes with the highest share corresponding to 5-caffeoylquinic acid, axillarin, coumaroylquinic acid isomers and 3-caffeoylquinic acid. The highest antiradical capacity in DPPH and ABTS scavenging assays was shown for HG 4:1 of AB and AM extracts. HG 1:1 extracts from both species inhibited monophenolase and diphenolase activity of tyrosinase, whereas AB HG 4:1 extract showed significant monophenolase inhibition. The highest sun protection factor (SPF) was determined for AM HG 4:1 extract, equal to 14.04 ± 0.17. The AB extracts were cytotoxic for both human keratinocytes HaCaT and A375 melanoma, however HG 1:1 and 4:1 extracts were more cytotoxic for cancer than for noncancerous cells. In conclusion, AB HG 1:1 and 4:1 extracts display significant potential as active cosmetic ingredients.

SUBMITTER: Gawel-Beben K

PROVIDER: S-EPMC7436264 | biostudies-literature | 2020 Jul

REPOSITORIES: biostudies-literature

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Achillea millefolium L. and Achillea biebersteinii Afan. Hydroglycolic Extracts-Bioactive Ingredients for Cosmetic Use.

Gaweł-Bęben Katarzyna K Strzępek-Gomółka Marcelina M Czop Marcin M Sakipova Zuriyadda Z Głowniak Kazimierz K Kukula-Koch Wirginia W

Molecules (Basel, Switzerland) 20200724 15

Studies on hydroglycolic (HG) extracts of Achillea biebersteinii (AB)-a less investigated representative of the genus-were performed to determine their potential for cosmetic applications compared to the well-known Achillea millefolium (AM). Three types of water:polyethylene glycol extracts (1:1, 4:1, 6:1 v/v) were obtained from both species and analyzed for their composition by high performance liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (HPLC-ESI-Q-TOF-MS) ...[more]

PMID: 32722270

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Project description:Achillea millefolium L. is one of the most known medicinal plants with a broad spectrum of applications in the treatment of inflammation, pain, microbial infections and gastrointestinal disorders. In recent years, the extracts from A. millefolium have also been applied in cosmetics with cleansing, moisturizing, shooting, conditioning and skin-lightening properties. The growing demand for naturally derived active substances, worsening environmental pollution and excessive use of natural resources are causing increased interest in the development of alternative methods for the production of plant-based ingredients. In vitro plant cultures are an eco-friendly tool for continuous production of desired plant metabolites, with increasing applicability in cosmetics and dietary supplements. The purpose of the study was to compare phytochemical composition and antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitory properties of aqueous and hydroethanolic extracts from A. millefolium obtained from field conditions (AmL and AmH extracts) and in vitro cultures (AmIV extracts). In vitro microshoot cultures of A. millefolium were obtained directly from seeds and harvested following 3 weeks of culture. Extracts prepared in water, 50% ethanol and 96% ethanol were compared for the total polyphenolic content, phytochemical content using the ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography-quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry (UHPLC-hr-qTOF/MS), antioxidant activity by DPPH scavenging assay and the influence on the activity of mushroom and murine tyrosinases. The phytochemical content of AmIV extracts was significantly different from AmL and AmH extracts. Most of the polyphenolic compounds identified in AmL and AmH extracts were present in AmIV extracts only in trace amounts and the major constituents presented in AmIV extracts were fatty acids. The total content of polyphenols in AmIV exceeded 0.25 mg GAE/g of dried extract, whereas AmL and AmH extracts contained from 0.46 ± 0.01 to 2.63 ± 0.11 mg GAE/g of dried extract, depending on the solvent used. The low content of polyphenols was most likely responsible for the low antioxidant activity of AmIV extracts (IC50 values in DPPH scavenging assay >400 µg/mL) and the lack of tyrosinase inhibitory properties. AmIV extracts increased the activity of mushroom tyrosinase and tyrosinase present in B16F10 murine melanoma cells, whereas AmL and AmH extracts showed significant inhibitory potential. The presented data indicated that microshoot cultures of A. millefolium require further experimental research before they can be implemented as a valuable raw material for the cosmetics industry.

Project description:In the recent past many studies investigated the microbiome of plants including several medicinal plants (MP). Microbial communities of the associated soil, rhizosphere and the above-ground organs were included, but there is still limited information on their seasonal development, and in particular simultaneous investigations of different plant organs are lacking. Many studies predominantly addressed either the prokaryotic or fungal microbiome. A distinction of epi- and endophytic communities of above-ground plant organs has rarely been made. Therefore, we conducted a comprehensive investigation of the bacterial and fungal microbiome of the MP Achillea millefolium and studied the epi- and endophytic microbial communities of leaves, flower buds and flowers between spring and summer together with the microbiome of the associated soil at one location. Further, we assessed the core microbiome of Achillea from four different locations at distances up to 250 km in southern Germany and Switzerland. In addition, the bacterial and fungal epi- and endophytic leaf microbiome of the arborescent shrub Hamamelis virginiana and the associated soil was investigated at one location. The results show a generally decreasing diversity of both microbial communities from soil to flower of Achillea. The diversity of the bacterial and fungal endophytic leaf communities of Achillea increased from April to July, whereas that of the epiphytic leaf communities decreased. In contrast, the diversity of the fungal communities of both leaf compartments and that of epiphytic bacteria of Hamamelis increased over time indicating plant-specific differences in the temporal development of microbial communities. Both MPs exhibited distinct microbial communities with plant-specific but also common taxa. The core taxa of Achillea constituted a lower fraction of the total number of taxa than of the total abundance of taxa. The results of our study provide a basis to link interactions of the microbiome with their host plant in relation to the production of bioactive compounds.

Project description:BackgroundSpecies complexes or aggregates consist of a set of closely related species often of different ploidy levels, whose relationships are difficult to reconstruct. The N Hemisphere Achillea millefolium aggregate exhibits complex morphological and genetic variation and a broad ecological amplitude. To understand its evolutionary history, we study sequence variation at two nuclear genes and three plastid loci across the natural distribution of this species complex and compare the patterns of such variations to the species tree inferred earlier from AFLP data.ResultsAmong the diploid species of A. millefolium agg., gene trees of the two nuclear loci, ncpGS and SBP, and the combined plastid fragments are incongruent with each other and with the AFLP tree likely due to incomplete lineage sorting or secondary introgression. In spite of the large distributional range, no isolation by distance is found. Furthermore, there is evidence for intragenic recombination in the ncpGS gene. An analysis using a probabilistic model for population demographic history indicates large ancestral effective population sizes and short intervals between speciation events. Such a scenario explains the incongruence of the gene trees and species tree we observe. The relationships are particularly complex in the polyploid members of A. millefolium agg.ConclusionsThe present study indicates that the diploid members of A. millefolium agg. share a large part of their molecular genetic variation. The findings of little lineage sorting and lack of isolation by distance is likely due to short intervals between speciation events and close proximity of ancestral populations. While previous AFLP data provide species trees congruent with earlier morphological classification and phylogeographic considerations, the present sequence data are not suited to recover the relationships of diploid species in A. millefolium agg. For the polyploid taxa many hybrid links and introgression from the diploids are suggested.

Dataset Information

Achillea millefolium L. and Achillea biebersteinii Afan. Hydroglycolic Extracts-Bioactive Ingredients for Cosmetic Use.

Publications

<i>Achillea millefolium</i> L. and <i>Achillea biebersteinii</i> Afan. Hydroglycolic Extracts-Bioactive Ingredients for Cosmetic Use.

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