Dataset Information

Clinical and in vitro evaluation of new anti-redness cosmetic products in subjects with winter xerosis and sensitive skin.

ABSTRACT:

Objective

To demonstrate the in vitro activities of panthenol, palmitoylethanolamide (PEA), and niacinamide (NAM) and determine the biophysical properties, clinical safety, tolerability together with efficacy of two developmental anti-redness (AR) formulations containing these ingredients, in alleviating facial redness associated with winter xerosis in healthy volunteers with sensitive skin.

Methods

The anti-inflammatory and skin protective properties of panthenol, PEA and NAM were evaluated in vitro. The physical properties of the AR formulations were analysed using measurement of water vapour transport rate (WVTR) and infrared spectroscopy. Clinical studies were performed between the months of December and April (2014-2015) with efficacy assessed during the winter. Facial redness, irritation, sensitization potential, photo-irritation, and photo-sensitization were evaluated. Self-assessed adverse reactions were reported in diaries of use.

Results

Panthenol and PEA reduced prostaglandin E₂ , interleukin-6, and thymic stromal lymphopoietin levels in vitro, while NAM induced nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD) levels and the keratinocyte differentiation markers: filaggrin (2-fold increase, P < 0.001), loricrin (2-fold increase, P < 0.05), involucrin (2 fold increase, P < 0.001) & peroxisomal proliferator activated receptor-alpha (1.5 fold increase, P < 0.05). The two AR products exhibited low WVTR vs. no treatment (P < 0.001) and displayed an ordered lipid structure. The day cream formulation protected against ultraviolet B radiation in vitro. A total of 382 participants were included in clinical studies which showed the AR formulations significantly improved facial redness associated with winter xerosis (Day 29 mean change from baseline: AR day cream 0.77 (P < 0.001); AR serum 0.67 (P < 0.001)). No irritation, sensitization, photo-irritation, photo-sensitization or product-related adverse reactions were observed or reported in the clinical studies.

Conclusion

The new products significantly improved skin redness associated with winter xerosis in participants with self-perceived sensitive skin. Both products were well tolerated with a suitable safety profile for topical use in subjects with sensitive skin.

SUBMITTER: Nisbet SJ

PROVIDER: S-EPMC6899962 | biostudies-literature |

REPOSITORIES: biostudies-literature

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Project description:Reference methods for microbiological safety assessments of cosmetics rely on culture methods that reveal colonies of live microorganisms on growth media. Rapid molecular technologies, such as qPCR, detects the presence of target DNA in samples from dead and viable cells. DNA intercalating dyes, such as propidium monoazide (PMAxx), are capable of restricting PCR amplification to viable microbial cells. Here we developed singleplex and multiplex real time (qPCR) assays for the detection of Bacillus cereus (B. cereus) using 16S rRNA and phosphatidylcholine-specific phospholipase C (PLC) gene specific sequences coupled with PMAxx. The limit of detection was determined to be ~ 1 log CFU/ml for 16S rRNA and 3 log CFU/ml for PLC detection in pure culture using an eye shadow isolate, B. cereus 3A. We assessed the inclusivity and exclusivity of our qPCR assays using 212 strains, including 143 members of B. cereus, 38 non- B. cereus. and 31 non-Bacillus species; inclusivity was 100% for the 16S rRNA and 97.9% for the PLC targets; the exclusivity was 100% for 16S rRNA and 98.6% for PLC targets. These qPCR assays were then used to assess samples of commercial cosmetics: one set of liquid face toners (N = 3), artificially contaminated with B. cereus 3A, and one set of powdered cosmetics (N = 8), previously determined to be contaminated with B. cereus. For some samples, test portions were analyzed by qPCR in parallel, with and without PMAxx treatment. All test portions were simultaneously streaked on BACARA plates to confirm viable cells of B. cereus, according to the culture method. We found no difference in sensitivity between the singleplex and the multiplex qPCR assays (P > 0.05). Inoculated samples that did not recover B. cereus on plates still showed amplification of the DNA targets. However, that amplification was significantly delayed in PMAxx -treated samples (P < 0.0001) with CT value differences of 7.82 for 16S rRNA and 7.22 for PLC. Likewise, amplification delay was significant (P < 0.0001) with inoculated samples that recovered B. cereus on plates with CT value differences of 2.96 and 2.36 for 16S rRNA and PLC, respectively, demonstrating the presence of dead cells in the samples. All our qPCR results correlated with detection on BACARA plates (kappa, k = 0.99), independently of the presence of PMAxx in the PCR assays. Nevertheless, the amplification threshold with PMAxx dyes was significantly higher than the non-PMAxx dyes. Our findings confirm qPCR can be used for more rapid detection of microorganisms in cosmetics, including B. cereus, and selective detection of viable cells can be improved using PMAxx dyes.